14th February. Marriage Parfait.

This anniversary we breakfast at a well patronised restaurant, serving individual fried-up prawns in a special eggy-batter, six different people work this production line process.

There are visitors here probably from the U.S. "All prostitutes!" declares Isabelles dad, which seems rather harsh... Granted they all have plucked eyebrows and still maintain a certain look despite the advancing years. One woman sits with her husband and extended family. There's no doubt from his characteristic wide jaw that this American is a returning war vet who managed to get his girlfriend out of the country before the VC overwhelmed this seaside resort. Vung Tau was popular for 'R&R' during the war and also the final point of departure of U.S. forces.

Thirty-odd years, a successful enough marriage despite the odds. Actually, today marks only our 10th year, a record for me but still small beer compared with Isabelles grandparents. Their union has stood sixty-five years, produced thirteen children and survived three wars; Japanese, French, and American, to quote one of Isabelle's dad's most popular phrases "In-credible!"



ENGLISH.

We take our lunch in a primitive but relaxing restaurant shack in a mangrove swamp. I skip the first course of deep-fried barnacles in batter for fear of shellfish bottom or worse. One has to be quick with the main course, to dig in with chopsticks and get a share of the fish but not the driver's flu.

The driver and I are drawn together by the recognition of the common bond of difficulty with conversational French. In his case complete incomprehension and mine, semi-incomprehension. We drink 'Saigon' beer whilst swinging in hammocks and struggle with other languages, ie English and Vietnamese.

I gather that the driver is twenty-nine and yes, you have to pass a driving testin Vietnam. He has been driving for three years and has twenty-five brothers and sisters? "In-credible!"
I have to resort to Isabelle's dad for clarification... The driver has one brother aged twenty-five. There is much amusement in the universal language of laughter.